Written Signs in the City

Situated in an insignificant corner of an insignificant convenience store, the stele read "坂本龍馬　中岡慎太郎　遭難之地", indicating the death place of Sakamoto Ryoma, one of the most popular historical figure in contemporary Japanese revolution, is considered a must-go tourist spot in Kyoto.

For a small monument with faded inscriptions in a rather negligible corner, this place (the small rectangular separation fenced with black rails) received unequal attention.  "This is the place.  You can see flowers given as tributes every day from visitors." said a clerk in the convenience store as I suspiciously verified with him if I had the correct address.  Apparently, my doubts were rather legit, for I was not the only one perplexed by the disproportionated fame of "Death of Sakamoto Ryoma" with this prudent monument.

Some background explanation is probably needed here:

In mid 19th century, the ancient city, Kyoto was the base of revolutionists to conspire and orchestrate their political ideal against official Tokugawa reign (1603-1868).  Sakamoto Ryoma was one of the leaders of the movement to overthrow Tokugawa rule.  Interestingly, although highly regarded by other revolution heroes, he did not appeared important in earlier historical discussions.  Yet, his legendary young death (died at the age of 33), defiant character and audacious lifestyles had inspired popular culture coverage from novels, manga to television drama, making him the most popular historical figure (oricon stye, 2010: http://life-cdn.oricon.co.jp/70635/full).

Given the weight and fame of Sakamoto Ryoma, the appearance of this sign seemed rather intriguing.

First of all, the language assigned was somehow euphemized.  The translation of the sign should read "This is the place where Sakamoto Ryoma and Nagaoka Shintaro met with their misfortune/accident".  Although the motive behind their assassination was inconclusive, the linguistic used was mild and almost impersonal.  According to this inscription, the death of the two revolutionists seemed to falter into some larger, intangible wheel of fate, rather than to be considered as a political incident.  Instead of blunt claim of death, it render the incident to something supreme, and thus cleverly avoided questioning of responsibility.

Additionally, 40 years after the assassination (1867), the stele erected in 1927 and since then the community had gone through several renovations before settling into convenience store.  When I tried to link the weight of this incident of radical change in contemporary Japanese history, to a modern and commercialized convenience store, it appeared rather ironic.  It was as if the significance of the death of the revolutionists was erased from locality, and what replaced the void was the consumer culture of a safe and neutral place.

Also, this sign can be seen as the identification of the place that without it, the place would have born no meaning.  For one thing, through reforms over the years, the community had changed its appearance and relation to history.  The significance and memory of this place would have been lost if not for a designated inscription given to it.  For another, the stele was actually erected at the neighboring house of the exact place of the assassination (Wikipeida).  That is, the record of the incident along with its meaning and historical connections was given by the sign to a different (although just slightly) coordinate.

Further reflection can be carried on regarding how these signs of historical incidents together with geographic mapping had created a different style of wandering in the city.  Kyoto, given its important status, had been witness of seeming historical incidents regarding conspiracies, revolutions and assassinations.  Browsing package tours on the internet, there are several interesting courses catering to the taste of history-maniacs and taking the traveller along trails of the signs and commemorations of historical events.  Some steles, like this one, appeared with merely a stone with faded carvings, but was given a different approach, a rather commercial way of visit.

I personally think it an interesting idea of tracing the city like following some steps of secret missions.  But I have to admit it looked a bit out of place, when tourists, including me, crowded in front of a dark corner of an ordinary convenience store, taking pictures of a stone sign erected not in the exact correct place,  with abrased inscription.